Chez Jules, Edinburgh - Restaurants in Edinburgh | s1play.com

Slice of rustic French cuisine gets a hearty welcome

Review published on 01/02/2010 © Sunday Herald

More than a decade after his Chez Jules chain overstretched itself and collapsed, chef Pierre Levicky is gradually re-establishing himself in Edinburgh, first with Chez Pierre in the New Town in 2008, and now with this amiable bistro on Hanover Street.

Descending into the basement premises, initial impressions are enticing, the aroma of freshly baked bread, a bustling kitchen and the animated chatter of numerous patrons affording a homely atmosphere that flirts with Gallic self-parody – wipe-down plastic, gingham-look tablecloths, giant blackboards, candles in wine bottles and cheap glass tumblers for decanting the vino.

To sneer would be disingenuous though, because this down-maison affectation comes at an eminently affordable price and beguiling touches like complimentary dressed salad, a warm baguette and pate instantly endear, even if the service is a little wayward and distracted.

The concise and quintessentially French menu is a confident statement of intent that, as a party of four, we reckon we can comprehensively negotiate. Starters are cheap, but none the worse for that.

The arresting herbal notes of a chicory, walnut and blue cheese salad are complemented by salty vinaigrette, a pleasant arrangement that stands well by itself. A classic French onion soup is a rich, nutty brown, its caramelised film topped with the requisite cheesy croutons, while a proper tartiflette, with Reblochon cheese and crispy, smoky bacon is gratifying comfort food, a truly warming, artery-clogging winter entree. With just a dash of cognac, a lobster bisque is velvety yet delicate in texture, vibrantly orange and bursting with fishy flavour.

Chez Jules’s previous incarnation boasted a reputation for steak. Skirt, rib eye, fillet and “the big one” are all present here along with a seafood selection that takes in cod and chips, oysters and lobster thermidor. If you were to discover a favourite dish among these and were of the homing inclination, I daresay Chez Jules would make for a rewarding regular haunt.

Sadly, we opted to focus on the most conspicuous section of the menu, classic dishes to share, a cosy arrangement that nevertheless brings a slightly disappointing outcome.

Served in a saucepan and with undeniable rustic charm, the extensive burning of the coq au vin in the pan’s base didn’t greatly compromise its flavour. The still honey-coloured chicken is enveloped in a sumptuous, glossy sauce of fruity, full-flavoured red wine with just the right stew of vegetables, herbs and juicy strips of bacon, though there’s a sad paucity of mushrooms and opinion was divided in our party about the side of gratin potatoes.

Arriving in the same manner, braised pork knuckle with sauerkraut has an ingratiating, home-made feel and nostril-pricking attraction, but the smoked sausage and bacon rather coalesce with the pork into an indistinguishable porcine medley, again, reasonable at the price but none too memorable. Of the desserts, a chocolate brownie is rich and meltingly chewy, no complaints there, while an eclair with ice cream, cut inexplicably along the diagonal, oozes fresh cream and chocolatey goo.

French cuisine established a global reputation by making a little and everything go a long way, so in these cash-straitened times, you wouldn’t wager against Chez Jules establishing itself as a redoubtable draw with a returning clientele. It has a few rough edges to be sure; the slapdash, occasionally disinterested service in particular going well beyond the point of being amusingly lackadaisical. Still, you sense that these are only the initial wobbles of a restaurant that’s been a long time returning, after a fashion, but is determined to stay this time.