Abrakebabra, Edinburgh - Restaurants in Edinburgh | s1play.com

There’s plenty of choice…if you like kebabs

Review published on 28/10/2009 © Sunday Herald

I've recently become a student again after a gap of the best part of a decade, much to the amusement of friends and family who like to make jokes about the student lifestyle: cue, they reckon, for a return to all-night essay writing sessions (not actually so different from many arts journalists of my acquaintance) alternating with round-the-clock partying.

This was very much on my mind when I spied the new kebab restaurant on Gilmore Place from the bus as I was heading into lectures. After all, one of the rituals of the student lifestyle is surely the late-night kebab on the way home from a night on the tiles.

In fact, rather in keeping with my decidedly half-hearted attempt to keep up with the other students (some things are best left to the young, I've realised) this new Edinburgh eatery is aiming at something rather more refined than the classic greasy takeaway kebab that seems like such a good idea in the small hours.

Rather, Abrakebabra offers a menu of what is described on the restaurant's website as gourmet Italian-style kebabs. It's perhaps somewhat unfortunate then that the name should be one shared with kebab takeaways up and down the country.

The decor doesn't do much to alter first impressions either; what the website describes as “New York cafe style” translates as lots of bare metal and wood finished off with some spectacularly garish green drapes.

The overall effect veers rather more toward chilly than cosy, particularly on a dreich Edinburgh evening, such as the one last week when I ventured out with one of my new university pals.

Abrakebabra's menu works the kebab theme and sticks to it pretty rigorously, though burgers are also an option. There didn't appear to be any starters, though there is a small selection of side orders: chips, potato wedges, onion rings and salads.

We skipped any such distractions and focused on the kebabs themselves. The fellow student - an Australian of Scottish extraction - was not impressed by the Signor Wallace option: haggis wrapped in beef marinated in whisky and topped with Stilton.

Had I been mean I could have insisted we give it a try, but to be honest I didn't really fancy it either. For a menu that concentrates on a single theme there is certainly plenty of choice, with a menu that features chicken, duck, beef and seafood.

We settled on the piccantino (king prawns and squid rings marinated in olive oil, garlic and fresh chillies served with green peppers and onions) and, on the recommendation of the waiter, the al ferri (lamb marinated in oil, garlic and rosemary served with peppers, aubergine and courgettes).

A generous serving of two skewers each proved ideal for sharing and came served on flat bread with coleslaw - the homemade variety coarsely chopped and tossed in dressing rather than swimming in mayonnaise. There was also a trio of sauces on the side: spicy chilli tomato relish, tzatziki (yoghurt with cucumber and mint) and salad dressing.

The piccantino was extremely garlicky but both the squid and the king prawns were cooked just enough without being chewy.

The lamb was also extremely flavoursome although a little bit sinewy at times; perhaps not quite ideal cut for the purposes of skewering.

Dessert continued the kebab theme and we went with it, for reasons of curiosity since our appetites had been catered for by the main course.

Pear and apple, coated in cinnamon and grilled, came exactly as described although the thick chocolate sauce was almost certainly melted Nutella - much to the delight of my friend who loves the stuff.

Served with a couple of perfectly decent glasses of house red and with a couple of coffees to finish, the bill came to £32.50; not too hard on the student wallet.

Combined with the friendly service, it's a place I would call in on again if I were in the area. On a slow night midweek it lacked a bit in atmosphere though presumably this would be better at the weekend.