Millport rocks by Graeme Smith – s1play.com

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Millport rocks

The Lion Rock considering lunch.

Millport rocks

Everyone knows the Crocodile Rock at Millport.

The story goes that one Robert Brown poured himself out of the Tavern across the road one day just before the First World War and was heard to remark that the rock across the road looked 'awful like a crocodile'. And then got himself over there with a bucket of paint to make sure everyone else saw the resemblance, too. The locals have repainted it yearly, since.

Which says a lot about Millport, the West Coast imagination, and daytime drinking, in no particular order.

But there are other rocks worth looking out for on the Great Cumbrae. In fact, there are at least three other rocks on the island which people have generally decided look like something else entirely.

Which says a lot about Millport, etc, etc...

I think the best way to do this is to walk, because it's a nice flat road and you get the chance to look around you, but it's perhaps ten miles round the island, so you might want to hire a bike. Or drive, I suppose, if you're particularly lazy.

Start at the Crocodile Rock and head towards West Bay, then keep going until you get to Fintry Bay on the opposite side of the island from Millport. On the way, if you keep an eye on the undergrowth covering the cliffs facing the sea, you should see a face peering out. It has been a Red Indian as long as I can remember, but apparently it was once the Czar of Russia. My childhood memory is of a sinister, predatory grimace, but it now just looks slightly deranged. Googling for it is a laugh, since you get to see the difference in artistic abilities in those who have maintained it over the years.

Stop at the cafe at Fintry Bay, because they have nice cakes, and you'll need to boost your energy. Then get going again and head right round the island to the slipway.

At this point you may be thinking you're nearly round the island, and you've only seen one rock you didn't know about. But bear with me, there's a reason for this. But not yet.

Stay on the coast road and first, there's the Lion Rock. It's an impressive wall of grey stone jutting from the ground, its holes and fissures giving it the aspect of a crouching big cat. Kinda.
Legend has it that some elves tried to build a bridge to the mainland, but when they realised the task was beyond them, they kicked their work apart in fury, only to be frightened off when it took on the shape of a lion. Supposedly they still find the lion terrifying, which is why you never find any elves in Millport - they're all round the Fintry Bay side of the island, possibly making cakes.

Finally, just as you head back into Millport, look at the shape of the headland as you approach the town. That's Queen Victoria's head - and, actually, it does look a bit like her, although Her Majesty does seem less green in her official portraits. She's the reason for heading round the island in that direction - I reckon it's easier to see her from that angle.

And that's it. If you can face the trudge through the town after your efforts, treat yourself to an ice-cream at The Ritz. You deserve it. Maybe have some Millport Rock.

Categories

  • Best during the day
  • Cycling
  • Driving
  • Good exercise
  • Just for fun
  • Seaside
  • Strenuous
  • Suitable for primary school kids (6-11)
  • Suitable for teenagers (12+)
  • Walking

Location(s)

  • Millport