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01/05/2008
Where the wild things are
It's a brave soul who sets up a seafood restaurant these days. Supplies are drying up because of overfishing, and sustainability is the buzzword. Previously...
 
21/04/2008
A step back in time. sadly
The other day at the Hunterian Museum in Glasgow, I found myself looking at a painting that Joan Eardley had done of Catterline, the cliff-top fishing village south of...
 
16/04/2008
Into the Vallée
A British restaurant is always at a bit of a disadvantage when its interior isn't visible from the street, more vulnerable still when you have to walk upstairs to get to...
 
10/04/2008
Bite of excellence
David Ramsden is one of Edinburgh’s quirkier restaurateurs. When he had characterful (Fitz)henry in Leith, he displayed his wacky decorative style to...
 
31/03/2008
Style and Substance
Fifi and Ally, so its website says, is a "magnet for the stylish shopper", not an observation that automatically makes me bond with the brand. I'm not quite sure how to...
 
27/03/2008
Courage, mes braves!
The Barley Bree in Muthill is a restaurant with rooms owned by a French chef and his Scottish wife. This goes some way towards explaining why the whole feel of the place is...
 
20/03/2008
Vegging out has its limits
With the world's population set to hit nine billion by 2050, we'll need more land to grow food for people, not feedstuffs for livestock. Even as a carnivore, I'm resigned to the...
 
10/03/2008
Style over substance
A botanical note has taken root in the restaurant world. Floral monikers are all the rage. Down south, there's Arbutus and Hibiscus; in Glasgow, there was Amaryllis....
 
05/03/2008
Top marks
David Wilson, who founded the Peat Inn, was way ahead of his time. Back in the 1980s, long before it became fashionable to talk about local sourcing, Wilson was...
 
25/02/2008
Taking the cake
Award-winning German master baker Falko Burkert burst on to the capital's food scene three years ago like a shooting star soaring through the gastronomic...
 
 
07/07/2008
Rich pickings
Whenever I have made rude remarks about once vibrant towns, ruined by brutal modernist architecture and woeful civic planning, readers respond with further...
 
30/06/2008
Hold the Relish
Wannaburger? Frankly, my answer to that one is "not really" or "hardly ever". Even before the McLibel case when two London anarchists put the US's biggest...
 
23/06/2008
Thrills... and frills
I'm always happy to visit Peebles. It's a congenial place: what a country town ought to be like but rarely is. Much of its original architecture remains, the...
 
16/06/2008
Level best
It's easy to miss the Carlton George Hotel, just along from Glasgow's Queen Street Station. A tall thin building with a dark, nondescript reception, and...
 
09/06/2008
Pick and mix
A universal requirement for all eating places, irrespective of the price level they’re pitching in at, should be that they get their price-ability ratio right....
 
02/06/2008
Smokin' under swirl power
The Flaming Kilt in Kirkcaldy – don’t blame me, I didn’t think up the name – is the latest opening from Gastro Taverns, a go-ahead company whose unique selling point is...
 
27/05/2008
Malay high
Financial jitters are hitting the eating out market. The manager of one restaurant in a prosperous urban location reports that, while 90% of the venue's take...
 
19/05/2008
Great expectations
I've been looking forward to two things since the beginning of the year: the next Amy Winehouse album - hmmm, could be some time yet - and the opening of Cafezique, the...
 
12/05/2008
Too little Italy
If you judged it on the basis of Italian restaurants in Scotland, you might never truly appreciate what Italian cooking, at its best, is all about. I was...
 
06/05/2008
Anyone for afters?
I always look forward to staying in Aberdeen, but finding a bed for the night is a problem. Demand for hotel rooms in the granite city outstrips supply: the city was...
 
 
06/10/2008
New tricks in the sticks
It’s a good few years since I ate at Glenskirlie House. It was then, and still is, an oasis in one of the country's eating out deserts. I can't speak for the Grill...
 
29/09/2008
Mysteries of the deep
It takes some keeping up with all the restaurants in Leith. I'm told that within a 300 metre radius of the shore, there are around 30 restaurants and bars, a seething...
 
22/09/2008
Turning Japanese…badly
There’s no reason why a Japanese restaurant run by non-Japanese can't be good. In London, the acclaimed Ichiban in Brixton is run by Colombians. Not as wacky as it...
 
01/09/2008
The second coming
The original Urban Angel in Edinburgh's Hanover Street has proven to be an unqualified asset to the city's eating scene, and the second outlet, now open in Forth...
 
18/08/2008
Taking the cake
If you ask me, there are four categories of cakes. There are the ones that look crap and taste crap (I'm thinking of those red, patent-leather strawberry tarts...
 
14/08/2008
Malaysian whispers
Psst… don’t tell a soul, but there’s a rather good newish Malaysian restaurant in Glasgow called Rumours. Keep it to yourself, but I’ve heard it’s even better than...
 
07/08/2008
Small wonder
I bet you think that because I write about food I've got a fabulous kitchen, big and roomy with an Aga, a butcher's chopping block, a gleaming Kitchen Aid mixer in the...
 
30/07/2008
On fire
Regular readers may have spotted my interest in woodfired ovens. There's something about that particular type of heat that imparts a unique character to...
 
21/07/2008
Starter for ten
One Ten, the restaurant in the newish Mark's Hotel in Glasgow, left a bad taste in my mouth, in the literal sense. It started with the pre-prandial focaccia and...
 
14/07/2008
Halfway there
You have to hand it to Buzzworks, the Ayrshire bar and restaurant operator: it likes to do things well. I haven't been to Elliots in Prestwick, or Scott's in Troon, but...
 
 
 
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